SHIMANO TEKOTA DRAG INSTALLATION PART 1
It's amazing what a new set of carbon fiber drag washers can do for any reel, regardless of make or model. It can easily be done with a little time, a little mechanical know-how, a few tools, and attention to detail. Our subject here will be a Dragmasters Carbon Fiber Tournament Drag Upgrade Kit being installed in a Shimano Tekota 700 reel, but the same procedure applies to virtually any reel you may want to take on.
For our valued customers who would like to send in their reels for upgrades and fishing reel repair, this is the perfect opportunity to see what goes on behind closed doors with your reels. We hope this takes a lot of "voodoo" out of some of our upgrades! Good luck, and don't forget to check out our great deals on Shimano reel parts, Penn reel parts, and much more!
Here's a list of tools you'll need to get you started
1- #1 PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER OR 4-IN-1 STYLE
SCREWDRIVER
1- 13mm WRENCH (TEKOTA 700 800 ONLY) OR
11mm (TEKOTA 300 500 600 ONLY)
1- JEWELERS TYPE SLOTTED SCREWDRIVER
1- BRASS OR WOODEN DOWEL @ 1/4" OR 3/8 DIA.
1 -ARTIST PAINTBRUSH
1- PRECISION OILER
1- GREASE OF YOUR CHOICE
1- LIGHTER FLUID OR VM&P NAPTHA
1- SCOTCH BRITE TYPE OF BUFFING WHEEL FOR
A DREMEL OR 000 / 0000 FINE STEEL WOOL
PLENTY OF TISSUES & Q-TIPS WILL BE NEEDED!
HERE'S OUR VICTIM! AN UNSUSPECTING TEKOTA 700 IN DESPARATE NEED OF A NEW CARBON FIBER DRAG UPGRADE. THIS PARTICULAR CUSTOMER REQUESTED DRAG MASTERS BRAND.
LET'S START THINGS OFF BY REMOVING THE HANDLE NUT PLATE SCREW.
REMOVE THE FRICTION WASHER. IF YOU DON'T SEE IT HERE, IT'S STUCK TO THE HANDLE.
STEP #4: HERE'S ONE OF THE TRICKY PARTS ON REELS WITH CLICK INDEX PINS. NOTICE HOW THE ACCESS HOLE ON TOP OF THE DRIVE SHAFT IS OFFSET TO ONE SIDE. THIS IS AN INDICATION OF WHICH WAY THE CLICK PIN ITSELF WILL SHOOT OUT ONCE THE STAR DRAG KNOB IS BACKED OFF AND REMOVED. THE ARROW IN THE PICTURE SHOWS THE DIRECTION OF TRAVEL THE CLICK PIN WILL GO. IN THIS CASE, IT WILL BE SHOOTING OUT AT THE 12 O'CLOCK POSITION, SO YOU'LL WANT TO CUP ONE HAND BELOW THE STAR DRAG KNOB, WHILE BACKINK IT OFF WITH THE OTHER. THIS WILL REDUCE THE CHANCES OF SPENDING WHAT WILL FEEL LIKE DAYS ON YOUR HANDS AND KNEES LOOKING FOR THE CLICK PIN.
HOPEFULLY, YOU'RE LOOKING AT THE SAME PARTS THAT YOU SEE HERE IN PHOTOS #4A & #4B. IF YOU ARE, YOU'RE IN GOOD SHAPE AND NO MORE SURPRISES...FOR A WHILE.
WE LIED...SURPRISE! THERE'S A WASHER HIDING UNDER THE STAR DRAG.
NOW PULL OFF YOUR COMPRESSION SPRING WASHERS. MAKE A NOTE ON THE SEQUENCE.
THIS IS WHAT YOU'LL SEE UNDER THE COMPRESSION SPRING WASHERS. NO NEED TO TRY AND REMOVE THEM NOW; THEY'LL SLIDE OFF WITH THE SIDE COVER EASILY ENOUGH.
REMOVE THE 6 SIDE COVER SCREWS AND YOU CAN NOW SLIDE THE SIDE COVER OFF.
NOW THAT THE SIDE COVER IS OFF, THE SHIMS AND BEARING DUST COVER WILL SLIDE RIGHT OFF.
TURN OVER THE SIDE COVER AND PULL OUT THE ROLLER CLUTCH INNER TUBE & GIVE IT A QUICK CLEAN WITH YOUR BUFFING WHEEL OR FINE STEEL WOOL.
STEP #10 USING A BRASS OR WOODEN DOWEL, PUSH OUT THE BALL BEARING FROM THE INSIDE OUT. THIS MAY BE TOUGH AT FIRST, BUT PUSH EVENLY ALL AROUND THE BEARING UNTIL IT POPS OUT. IT'S CRITICAL TO REMOVE THIS NOW AS THIS BEARING IS GENERALLY THE CULPRIT IN LOUSY DRAG PERFORMANCE! SOMETIMES THEY COME RIGHT OUT & FOR THE UNFURTUNATE ONES THAT DON'T WANT TO BUDGE, YOU CAN USE PENETRATING OIL, THEN LIGHTLY TAP THE END OF YOUR DOWEL WITH A SMALL HAMMER... JUST LIKE THIS ONE. .
SO FAR, SO GOOD,.. RIGHT? MAYBE!
HERE'S ALL THE PARTS LAID OUT (LESS HANDLE OF COURSE) THAT YOU SHOULD HAVE WHEN WORKING ON EITHER A TEKOTA 700 OR 800. WHEN DEALING WITH EITHER THE SMALLER TEKOTA 300, 500, AND 600 SERIES REELS, THERE ARE ONLY 2 COMPRESSION SPRING WASHERS VS. 4 ON THE 700 OR 800 TEKOTAS.
ALSO, PLEASE TAKE NOTICE THAT REGARDLESS OF THE SIZE OF TEKOTA REELS, THAT THERE MAY BE ANYWHERE FROM 1 T 4 COPPER BEARING THRUST WASHERS INSTALLED AT THE TIME OF PRODUCTION. IN THIS CASE THERE HAPPENED TO BE TWO INSTALLED, INDICATED BY RED ARROWS IN THE PHOTO. THIS ALSO GIVES YOU A GOOD IDEA OF ALL THE PARTS YOU SHOULD HAVE ON YOU WORK AREA AT THIS STAGE OF DISASSEMBLY.
NOW LET'S GET TO THE DRAGS! JUST GRAB ONTO THE DRIVE GEAR AND SLIDE IT RIGHT OFF.
JUST FLIP THE DRIVE GEAR OVER AND IF YOU'RE LUCKY, THE OLD DRAG GUTS WILL FALL RIGHT OUT. IF NOT JUST PICK THEM OUT WITH YOUR SMALL SCREWDRIVER AND SLIDE OFF (OR PRY) THE UNDER GEAR (U/G) WASHER.
HERE'S THE DRAG SYSTEM THAT HAS BEEN PLAGUING THIS REEL SINCE DAY 1, ACCORDING TO THE OWNER.
REMOVE THE 4 ANTI-REVERSE (A/R) PAWL SCREWS & 2 A/R PAWL KEEPERS. ONCE THAT'S DONE, THE A/R RATCHET GEAR AND 2 A/R PAWLS SHOULD SLIDE OFF. NOW WOULD BE A GOOD TIME TO REMOVE THE PINION AND YOKE AS WELL.
HERE'S THE FRAME SET PLATE COMPLETELY STRIPPED AND READY FOR CLEANING -- OR IS IT? LET'S TAKE A CLOSER LOOK!
HERE'S ANOTHER ONE OF THOSE WASHERS JUST LIKE THE ONE ON THE SIDE COVER IN STEP 9A! JUST FOR THE RECORD: 1) THESE LITTLE GUYS DON'T EXIST IN THE SCHEMATICS, 2) THERE'S NO PART NUMBER, AND 3) THEY'RE NOT IN EVERY REEL, SO IF YOU DON'T SEE 'EM, DON'T SWEAT IT!
YOU ARE NOW READY TO ADVANCE TO PART 2!
Reel Upgrades - Shimano Reel Parts & Much
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